Camera Guide: Fujifilm X100V
The Fujifilm X100V has been one of my most used cameras over the past few years. The balance of portability, image quality, and a pure photography-focused experience make it perfect not only for travel, but also for just documenting the everyday. Over time, I’ve found a handful of settings that make the camera easier to use and have improved my results. Since I’ve started sharing more images made with the camera on Instagram and Threads, I’ve gotten a lot of messages with questions about how to get the most out of it, especially from users who are new to Fujifilm and just bought an older X100 series or new X100VI. I hope to answer many of those questions here & now! Much of what I’m talking about here is applicable to the X100VI as well, even though I shoot the previous generation model. If you’re more interested in how I get sharper Fuji RAWs, check out this post. Or, if you’re curious about my editing and want to try my free presets, check out this one.
In this blog post, I’ll cover:
Why I use the X100V alongside the X-T5 & X-S10
Fujifilm’s Camera Guide (it’s really good)
Accessories that improve the X100V experience
Camera settings & setup, custom buttons
Film simulations vs. RAW
Final thoughts
Where the X100V Sits in My Gear Lineup
I currently shoot on the Fujifilm X-T5, X-S10, and X100V cameras (see my full gear page here). While it might seem redundant to have all three of these cameras, each serves a purpose and optimizes how quickly and efficiently I can start creating images. First off, the X-S10 is primarily a backup camera body for my X-T5. If I’m traveling on a project and something were to happen to my X-T5, I can still get the images I need and use my full suite of X-Mount lenses on the X-S10. Sure, the sensor is 26MP versus 40MP, but when shooting the X-S10 (and 26MP X100V) I’m always conscious that I’ll have a bit less room to crop, so I shoot with that in mind. Lightroom also has an incredible Super Resolution tool to increase image size. Sometimes, if I want something lightweight and a little different than the 23mm focal length on my X100V, I’ll take out the X-S10 with a 56mm lens, and leave the other cameras at home.
As mentioned before, the X100V is a pure photography focused experience. When arriving at a scene, I don’t have to overthink it. No question of “which lens should I use here,” just start composing, typically first with the OVF/EVF and then the screen if certain angles are needed. It’s super lightweight and comfortable to hold, especially when adding a few accessories. Using film simulations like Portra 400 and Classic Cuban Negative helps give me an idea about what an edit might look like, but I still largely edit all of my work from RAW using my presets.
While I’m typically always carrying my X-T5 too, the first photos I shoot at a new scene are almost always on the X100V. Once I’ve canvassed the area and thought through any compositions that need a different focal length, I’ll go back with the X-T5 and shoot those. Also, recently I’ve started shooting FLog-2 video on my X-T5. Although it’s quick to switch between photo and video modes, I like that I can reserve my battery life on the X-T5 for video and the X100V for photos. Not everyone needs three camera bodies, but this lineup has been more than meeting my personal and professional needs.
Fujifilm’s Camera Guide
Just for awareness, Fujifilm’s camera guides / manuals on their website are quite good. Better than I’ve seen for other brands. I highly recommend reading through all of it - you’ll get a great sense of the features available to you.
Accessories to Improve the X100V Experience
Without any additional accessories, the X100V is pretty compact and lightweight. For some, that’s paramount, and they wouldn’t want to add any bulk. However, I do think adding a few things makes the experience a lot more comfortable, meaning you’ll be shooting it more often!
Ergonomics. My hands are large, so I need a few ergonomic additions to make this camera more comfortable for me. I’m using the LensMate thumb grip, which folds back for easier access to the rear command dial: a huge plus. I’m also using a grip + base plate from JJC, which adds a deeper grip and ARCA compatible base plate for easy tripod mounting.
Weather Sealing/Filters/Hoods. To weather seal the X100V, you need to add a filter ring and filter over the lens. I’ve gone through a few of these over the years, but currently rocking the PolarPro Everyday Filter Black Mist 1/4 with CPL. I also have a SquareHood lens hood fitted with a normal clear glass filter, which I might swap on if I don’t want the mist/CPL effects.
Straps. I’m using the Peak Design anchor system, with black anchors links. Depending on the scene, I’ll use the Peak Design cuff wrist strap, or a Clever Supply Co. black leather adjustable strap fitted with anchors.
Shutter Buttons. I know people really like these, but my camera bag setup is very compact and a shutter button getting caught inside the bag or camera cube would definitely cause some damage. I used them for maybe 6 months before I realized the risk wasn’t personally worth it to me. But, to each their own, they do look pretty cool!
Batteries. I only use OEM batteries, they’re a little more expensive but it’s worth getting a spare and using the real deal.
SD Cards. Only using Lexar SD cards these days, I had a big SanDisk failure a few years ago and swore off their product lineup. The Silver 1667x works great for the X100V, and using Gold 2000x on my X-T5 for faster write speeds, given the 40MP files.
Camera Settings
One of my favorite things about Fujifilm cameras is how customizable the buttons and screen are - you can really craft an experience that works best for you. Here are the bulk of the settings I use that might be a bit different than the way the camera comes out of the box.
Image Size & Quality. Always shooting L with 3:2 ratio, Fine + RAW. This maximizes what the sensor is capable of.
Custom Buttons, Dials, & Mapping.
I’m primarily shooting on Manual mode with AF-S, with a single focus point you can move around with the joystick.
I set the shutter speed dial to “T” and have the rear command dial mapped to SS, so I can fully control shutter speed with this dial.
I map the click-in function of the real command dial to Focus Check, which is more helpful with manual focusing mode but still nice otherwise. It’ll show a zoomed in preview of the focus area.
I map the small custom button on top, to the right of the shutter button, to AUTO ISO modes, so I can quickly switch between different ISO bands. Most of the time I’m setting ISO manually, but when AUTO is more convenient, I appreciate this custom button. Also, don’t be afraid of ISO! Software like Lightroom and DxO does an amazing job of removing high ISO noise.
I map the AEL/AFL button on the back to AF-ON, for back-button focusing. This is incredibly helpful when shooting in Manual Focus mode, as you can still draw on the AF-S to get a good starting point and then adjust as needed.
Other Settings.
I use Focus Peaking when shooting Manual Focus, it’ll highlight in color the current focus area. Combined with the focus check feature, there’ll never be a question if you’ve hit your focus mark!
Release Focus Priority for AF-S on focus, and for AF-C on release. This means the shutter won’t release until focus is found in AF-S, but for AF-C, even if the focus point isn’t found, it’ll still snap. I don’t use AF-C often but with fast moving action, you’ll want the shutter to release so you don’t miss a potential shot. If you’ve having focus issues on these cameras, it’s typically because the focus point doesn’t have a strong point of contrast within the box/point.
Interval Timer Shooting is great for photographing yourself or family photos - just set your tripod, exposure, and then how many seconds between frames / how many frames, and let the camera snap away. Combined with AF-C + Face/Eye Tracking, easy self portraits anywhere.
For Sound Setup, I just turn off all the sounds.
For Screen/Display Setup, I use the 9 grid framing guideline. Additionally, for the LCD Custom Settings, I use Framing Guideline, Electronic Level, Histogram, and Live View Highlight Alert (flashes when you’re likely going to blow the highlights). I turn Image Display off since it slows me down, I don’t need to see a preview of the image right after shooting it.
Film Simulations vs. RAW
Film simulations are a big reason people buy Fujifilm cameras, and with good reason: you can create a fully JPEG focused editing workflow, even doing most of it in-camera with the RAW Processor. If you weren’t aware, when shooting RAW+JPEG, you can use simulations and other recipe components in-camera to edit the photo and run a new JPEG copy with the camera’s built in RAW Processor. This is so powerful because even if you don’t nail the exposure the first time, you have some room to tweak it into a JPEG result that you like. I personally enjoy using simulations to get an idea about how an edit might look, but all of my work is typically edited from RAW with my own presets. Do note that simulations that affect clarity slow down the camera’s buffer, so not recommended for scenes where you need to shoot more burst style.
I shoot and edit RAW because of the control and latitude to edit the images. Fuji RAWs are easy to work with, and over the years, I’ve developed a slate of presets to make my editing workflow very fast. I usually don’t need to spend more than 5 minutes on each image, depending on how much masking is required to shape the light. It took years of experience and thousands of edits to get to this point, but I think learning Lightroom Classic is a worthwhile skill.
Final Thoughts & Image Samples
The Fujifilm X100V is my favorite camera of all time. Fun to use, great image quality, and an amazing shooting experience. It's the first camera I reach for out in the field, and while gear doesn't equal results, l've come to absolutely love the images l've created with this camera. My portfolio is woefully out of date (update coming soon!) but I wanted to share a small gallery of some my favorite images created with this camera. All images are edited in Lightroom Classic from RAW with my presets.
